London Fashion Week
Photo: via @erdem
LondonFW is definitely not as impactful or influential as Paris or Milan, but I didn't want to leave it out of my seasonal recap because it wouldn't be complete without it. It's also kind of sad I think, given how many brilliant and visionary British designers are out there working for French and Italian houses, how little attention LFW gets, so I just wanted to spend a little time giving their homegrown talent some love.
What I've always appreciated about British designers is their way of mixing Modernity and Tradition. They have a way of weaving new and unconventional concepts with historical references, creating their own unique blend of avant-garde femininity. I wasn't there in person sadly, as I absolutely LOVE London and am Canadian after all, but I did want to quickly call out some of the key looks and shows that stood out for me anyway, along with a little shopping edit.
ERDEM
I've always had a soft spot for ERDEM Moralioglu, also Canadian btw, and his incredible clothes, made even more so through exhaustive research and experimental techniques. This season, his 1920s-inspired collection of delicate drop-waisted dresses and Saville-Row quality suiting was jaw-dropping. I would love to see a gorgeous ingenue wearing Erdem on the red carpet this awards season!
SIMONE ROCHA / TOGA
SIMONE ROCHA also focused on delicate, feminine elements such as tulle, lace, florals, and soft silhouettes. Personally I loved the soft pastels, the floral motifs, shaping up to be a big trend this season, and the look for boys as well, so fun! Also spotted was that lovely gesture of clutching your coat closed at your chest, made unforgettable by that iconic Jil Sander FW2012 collection by Raf Simons.
I also really liked some of the interesting propositions at TOGA, an experimental and slightly punk brand by Japanese designer Yasuko Furuta. I loved the intricately-designed voluminous trench coat look and many of the billowing and tiered dresses, which were quite avant garde while still accessible.
BURBERRY / JW ANDERSON
Daniel Lee's BURBERRY seems to still be struggling to find it's sure footing, which I find really disappointing considering I was an early adopter of his Bottega. I mean what happened?! Is it really management's fault? is his creativity being stunted by overwhelming pressure? or is Burberry just doomed? I still have high hopes for a fashion miracle at this brand and I'd like to believe that the secret sauce he had with his first breakthrough is still there. I did love the extraordinary sequin paillette fringe dresses styled with parkas - this whole high-low look is shaping up to be a big trend, see Prada!
JW ANDERSON on the other hand, one of the most prolific and imaginative designers of our time, showed another strong collection of sculptural dresses, deconstructed knitwear and graphic prints. I love the way his mind works, and though I'm more of a Loewe-woman than a JW-girl, I still love what he's doing at his namesake brand. Not to mention so impressive that he's been able to do it all for so long without seeming to lose any of his creativity.
SHOPPING CORNER!!
A few designer bits and bobs to entice you with - some old, some new!
BURBERRY
She loves a party dress but doesn’t mind getting a bit dirty mucking about
FROM LEFT to RIGHT:
BOTTEGA VENETA silver embellished dress with scarf detail (a sexy metallic cocktail dress is always a good thing )
UNIQLO*C three-way parka (from Claire Wright Keller’s new offering)
BOTTEGA VENETA gold halter dress (are you more of a gold or silver person? Or are you more a fiery red-orange?)
BURBERRY oversize trenchcoat (this is a very good trench, made by the people who invented rain)(NOT PICTURED: Another really good olive green BURBERRY trenchcoat here as well)
BOTTEGE VENETA purple sequin neck band dress (another vintage Daniel Lee from when things were good)
LOEWE cotton-twill parka (NOT PICTURED: pre-loved leather hooded parka from LOEWE, and another one from CELINE )
JW ANDERSON
She smokes real cigarettes and goes to art school but still might change her mind and pursue a career in fashion
FROM LEFT to RIGHT:
LOEWE crystal-embellished loafers (NOT PICTURED: similar adornment on a fantastic ballerina flat)
JW ANDERSON twisted seam wide leg pants
JW ANDERSON Crystal Suede Penny Loafer Mules (or in black here, so hard to choose. Would look great with jeans and cozy socks on the weekends)
JW ANDERSON Hourglass Double-Breasted Wool Jacket (this has a very good new season shape)
LOEWE leather waist belt (from theREALREAL! or here’s a slightly different version also pre-loved!)
JW ANDERSON tie-detail crewneck sweater (NOT PICTURED: or this great deconstructed striped sweater from OldCeline which is giving new season nautical vibes)
LOEWE PAULA’S IBIZA navy balloon pants (very Alaia. Here’s another good version, and a very cool pair of JW jeans in XS)
JW ANDERSON suede shearling ankle boots (you’ll be so happy you got these in a few months)
LOEWE leather trim high low skirt (it’s all about this skirt shape again)
SIMONE / toga
She really lives for Comme but this is more her everyday look…
FROM LEFT to RIGHT:
SIMONE ROCHA Puff-Sleeve Sculpted Corset Wool Jacket (NOT PICTURED: a great pre-loved parka with Simone styling)
SIMONE ROCHA sculpted white lace midi dress (On sale and a few small sizes left over from summer. NOT PICTURED: On the subject of lace dresses, I’ve also had my eye on this dress for a while, and this one too. Great for weddings, somebody grab them!)
SIMONE ROCHA black silk seamed dress (this has the prettiest 30s seaming detail, so feminine! NOT PICTURED: )
TOGA black and whtie panelled maxi skirt (a very SS25 shape)
TOGA buckled patent flats (if you’re feeling inspired by the new wacky shoe trend)
TOGA satin panel skirt
That's it for this one friends, I need to keep up with all the goings-on in Paris already, lest I get too far behind. This newsletter business is no joke, so much to do, but I'm loving sharing my insights with you and would love to get your feedback and opinions! I’ll roll out my thoughts on Milan shortly, so watch this space.
Before you go, here's a convenient link to Goop's London Guides, which I found pretty useful on my last trip this summer, remember Gwynny used to live there. Not to be missed are Browns for shopping and the Chiltern Firehouse for an evening out. Or check out a centuries-old pub with great food and great interiors at The Surprise. For design aficionados looking for some distraction off the beaten path, why not spend some time at The Cosmic House, a post-modern extravaganza hovering somewhere between high art and kitsch, with a dash of astrological mysticism.
I leave you with a pic of yours truly and a quote from Her Majesty the Queen:
“If I wore beige, nobody would ever know who I am.”
As always, signing off with a great song -so what’s the TEA?!
Love you and thanks for reading!! Natasha xx
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