New York Fashion Week
Photo: via @maisonalaia
Sorry for the delay in publishing my second post friends! Oh the challenges of starting a passion project on the side... 🤪. Bear with me please, I’ll get the hang of this I promise. Unfortunately the launch of FirstOption coincided inconveniently with NYFW and I didn't expect to be as busy as I was. I'm the kind of stylist that generally prefers working backstage helping my clients with their collections, shows and lookbooks to actually going to all the events and shows myself, introvert that I am. I just enjoy the work too much, and the process of putting it all together makes me happy. That said, I often wish I could be in two places at one time, because there are a lot of amazing things happening, and there's nothing better than IRL right?
Since I started working on this newsletter though, I've noticed the way in which I take in fashion content has started to shift and feel fresh again. This is a pleasant surprise for me given I've been following the runways and trends for over 20 years. Now I'm looking at the collections not just for key looks to craft editorials or build narratives around, not just analyzing for overarching trends and seismic vibe shifts which are surely happening, the return of ‘real’ style and dressing!, but now I'm also looking for the most exciting, wearable, and functional ideas and pieces to add to my wardrobe, and yours my dear reader.
I feel closer to the ground somehow, more practical, pragmatic, less in a dream state about some fantasy life with a fantasy wardrobe. I have a pretty good feeling that this might resonate with some of you as well, given the number of people writing me asking for advice on 'elevated basics' right now, and that's why I started FirstOption anyway, to offer a stylist's curatorial eye on the whole thing. I'll be sending out a recap for the shows happening in Europe right now in due time, so watch your inbox.
For as long as I can remember, I've been creating boards like the ones below at the start of every season to remind myself of my favorite looks, by designer. In the far distant past I even had a big foam board in my studio where I printed and pinned up all these paper dolls so I can take in the whole season at a glance. Luckily for trees, I don't do that anymore, and now I take it a step further, and start building a shopping list for the new mood right away. So with that in mind, I present my favorite looks from NYFW, and some inspired pieces you can buy now.😉
ALAÏA
ALAÏA’s show at the Guggenheim(!) was my favorite of the week, easily. Unfortunately I couldn't go because I was busy working behind the scenes with my own FW clients, so I'll add it to the list of shows I regret missing in my life (along with the last Margiela Couture extravaganza, the Chanel grocery store show and Vetements take over of a Chinese restaurant to name just a few...). "I’m so bummed I couldn’t see that incredible show at the Guggenheim, it was everything I love, sculptural, all about the silhouette, tonal, with a bit of a Druid/monk/yoga vibe from the very distant future", I wrote to my assitant the next morning LOL. From the soft color palette, to the bandeau tops and bouncy, harem pants (which I would totally want to rock on a yoga retreat), to the tiered ruffle skirts with double waistbands, and out of this world jewelry, it was all just so sophisticated. Bravo Pieter Miuler!
I do hope he decides to say at Alaïa and evolve on the incredible universe he has created for the house, instead of going to Chanel, which he would absolutely deserve, but I fear his soulful, methodical approach to design would get chewed up in the massive machine that it is, we’ll see. I'm also living for the thong sandals too, undoubtedly inspired by Phoebe Philo's wedges from the last drop which are now sold out. It's so interesting to see how her influence permeates through to so many other designers in subtle, and some, not so subtle ways. The introduction of a new practical clasp bag is sure to be a hit when it comes out too, will keep an eye out and let you know...
toteme
TOTEME, the Swedish label of well-priced elevated basics, comes to NYC and blows everyone out of the water! I've been obsessed with this brand for years, and it makes me really happy that they're finally getting the attention they deserve. No one is making better every day pieces at their price point, and the designs are getting much more sophisticated and fashion forward. This season they presented a no-fuss collection of neutrals, white/ivory/black only , that will surely satisfy anyone's 90s minimalist cravings.
I'm sure we're all aware by now of the winning trinity of TheRow/Toteme/Khaite, and I don't think the ecosystem that these three brands are existing in is going anywhere. I feel it speaks to the times we find ourselves in - political turmoil, economic uncertainty, war - personally I don't think people want to dress in costumes right now. I feel we want to look chic and comfortable while also nodding to a certain intellectual cool that appreciates sumptuous fabrics and graphic silhouettes. Toteme does this so well, and at a price point that doesn't break the bank. I'm such a fan! Highlights for me were the all white draped dress and skirt looks (chic kundalini retreat anyone?), the long onyx pendant necklaces and gold chokers, the clever use of scarves draped just so (invest early and wear the look this fall), and the update on their signature pajama set in cotton voile (obsessed).
proenza schouler
Speaking of Phoebe Philo, seems as though her influence never ceases to inspire. PROENZA SCHOULER's latest collection had her signature all over it to me, the iconic SS2015 and Resort2016 collections anyone? That's not necessarily a bad thing, considering some of her #oldceline is still working in my wardrobe, as I'm sure it is in yours too. Personally, I couldn't really see past those old references, but I still really enjoyed this collection, though truth be told, I preferred the last two Proenza shows more. Still, lots of great things to call out here like the fantastic striped dresses and and the looks with fringe skirts, the always great outerwear and tailoring, and also loved another Phoebe-inspired piece, the double-faced caftan, (a gently pre-loved one at theRealReal here yay!) as well as a leather dress with shoulder buckles and a self-tie waist (you might already know that I love something tied around the waist!). Forget the ubiquitous Samba's you see everyone on the street wearing, Proenza has a cool new black and white 90s skater sneaker that I'm sure will blow out as fast as their Birkenstock collab of yore!
Luckily a big chunk of this collection, including a lot of the pieces I feature above are already available for pre-order in Moda Operandi’s trunkshow. Proenza has traditionally been my go-to brand for a chic dress and I’ve loved all of them. This season there were a lot of great new iterations. Also loved Camilla Nickerson’s styling trick of draping a towel or scarf over a tote bag, which she also did at Toteme as well, seeing as she styled both shows - you can really see her strong influence. I’m noticing this styling trick is already happening in Milan as well, so take note, always good to carry an extra layer!
KHAITE
Giving you my uncensored POV here as promised: I love KHAITE, and I really appreciated the lighter touch this season. I'm so impressed by what this brand has been able to achieve in its short life span. Amazing product assortments across so many categories, but I think they really do these best: Leather, Denim, Cashmere and Bags. What I didn't love this season were some of their tricky experiments with organza, particularly in some of the overwhelming dress shapes. But those aside, the leather blouson jackets were everything, as to be expected (also Phoebe-inspired mind you, just calling it like I see it friends! Not to mention the patchwork leather tote 🤩)
The strong suiting was also fantastic, especially the hard and soft play between bold-shouldered tailored jackets or coats worn with sheer pants, and of course the exquisite crochet pieces were fabulous... For now, I'm jonesing for another one of their sumptuous leather jackets; I have one from a few seasons ago and I'm still in love, which just goes to show that if you invest in something of great quality you really value, you'll cherish it for years!
KALLMEYER
Designer Daniella Kallmeyer, was once quoted describing the ‘KALLMEYER woman’ as “an intellectual. Discerning. When she enters a room she doesn’t announce herself, she introduces herself. Friendly.” I love that! And this season she presented a strong collection of super wearable and understatedly chic clothes with a New York city attitude. Should come as no surprise since she has gotten to know her customer really well since she opened her namesake shop in the Lower East Side. With a strong background in draping and tailoring, these clothes look great in motion and really need to be tried on to be appreciated. We should all make a point of getting down to her store to try some stuff on!
Actually, I'll take a moment here to make a point about how you really never know until you put something on your own body. I tell my personal clients all the time: just order a thing and see how it feels, and you can always return it if you change your mind! In this brave new world of online shopping for everything, we should all get a little more comfortable with returns. I'm amazed by how few people realize how easy it is. In fact, I often buy things in multiple sizes, just to be sure, and return the one that doesn't work, especially as sizes fluctuate so much from brand to brand and region to region - US sizes are not the same as EU sizing, and French and Italian and UK and AUS and DE sizing are all over the place.
On the subject of NYC shops, you should definitely head down to my friend Batsheva’s jewel box of a store in Nolita. You’ll find all of her unique dresses and RTW, amazing one-of-kind pieces made out of dead stock fabric, as well as great vintage finds curated by Batsheva herself. There aren’t that many stores in NYC which embody the spirit of the 90s as much. A lot of the pieces from the presentation we just staged for NYFW are already available there or on her website. Especially great is the new Elsa dress.
JASON WU
This JASON WU collection was a sleeper hit for me, and I think one of his strongest ever. I loved the way he incorporated the work of Chinese artist Tong Yang-Tze and her use of Chinese calligraphy. It was amazingly light and airy in some places, while the screen-printing technique left some parts of the fabrics raw, creating a lot of depth and unique interest, especially in the coats. It will be really interesting to see if any of these looks get produced for retail down the line.
adam lippes / brandon maxwell
ADAM LIPPES showed some really good things this time, especially strong outerwear and denim, and the proportions are super cool! I've been really feeling into the all white and all denim moods of late, so this really resonated with me! The trench coat with built-in shawl in the photo above is already available for preorder on Moda, yay!, as are the white trenchcoat and baggy white jeans. An extraordinary mother of pearl maxi dress is also a click away if you can stomach the $9300 price tag 😳, srsly though? it’s even more expensive than the Phoebe Philo one it might be a dupe for.
White, white, everywhere, stains and NYC grit be damned! My appreciation for BRANDON MAXWELL continues to grow, and this season was really strong and wearable, it's no wonder he's become a go-to name for celebrities and women who boss! Excellent quality, graphic silhouettes and chic separates! A lot of this collection is in Moda’s trunkshow, like the fab sequin dress, the great barn jacket it’s styled with, so is the v. Prada-esque embellished skirt, the white cotton flare leg pants, and the black leather scarf which I really need need need!
MELITTA BAUMEISTER / LAUREN MANOOGIAN
A quick callout for MELITTA BAUMEISTER and LAUREN MANOOGIAN, especially as I love supporting female designers, and strongly feel there should be more women designing for the big houses. (To that point, I'm so happy to know Sarah Burton has found a new home at Givenchy, and Claire Wright Keller has a new gig at Uniqlo, though I don't know if she's able to exercise the full power of her talent within those limited parameters, we'll see I guess...) Anyway, Beaumeister and Manoogian are quietly evolving their universes, Melitta with experimental shapes and a sport influence, and Lauren with a satisfying 80s gesture that sort of reminds me of the Big 3 (Comme, Yohji, Issey) of that era.
COS
Finally lets wrap up this recap with an unexpected brand to show during NYFW, everyone's favorite The Row/Phoebe/Toteme dupe label, COS. You don't even have to wait until next spring to enjoy their offerings, seeing as this collection is See Now/Buy Now! Well, at least some things are already available on their website, like a strong shouldered blazer, and a Phoebe-esque great leather jacket. The rest will be slowly rolling out over the next weeks/months so keep an eye out, and I'll remind you here as well. They do a pretty good job of nailing the right silhouettes, and knocking off the right pieces, though their fabrics sometimes leave much to be desired. Some things look better online than they do in person, so don't get too excited, but I've got my eye on a few things, as do a lot of editors, who basically broke the internet trying to get their hands on a particular chunky cashmere crewneck sweater that was nearly as good as the OG Ophelia from The Row. Sadly sold out already 😓
SHOPPING CORNER!!
Okay, so now that you've taken it all in, here's the fun part, shopping into the looks. Obviously, we'll have to wait until all this new stuff hits the stores next spring, but in the meantime, I put together some of my favorite pieces from and inspired by the brands above, that you can get your hands on with no delay!!
ALAÏA
She’s jet-set and loves fine art and design as much as yoga and pilates
FROM LEFT to RIGHT:
ST.AGNI Black soft thong wedge sandals (NOT PICTURED: last season’s version with a slightly different wedge, a few sizes available on SALE here.)
ALAÏA large sphere cuff bracelet (it’s all about bold forearm candy again)
TOTEME 40mm kitten heel flip flop
ALAÏA gold coil hoop earrings (wow)
SPANX smoothing bandeau
ALAÏA wool fit and flare skirt (if you’ve got the legs…)
GIRLFRIEND COLLECTIVE suede bandeau bra (NOT PICTURED: also like this one from SKIMS)
ALAÏA nylon balloon pleated drawstring trousers, also available in White which would be so fun on vacay. (NOT PICTURED: LOEWE also has a pair of harem pants that are a bit reduced in volume. So cool)
ALAÏA mini ring fringed leather bag (evokes the curled architecture of the Guggenheim)
TOTEME
She’s a purist - loves minimalist Scandi-design and the no-makeup makeup look but occasionally goes for a red lip
FROM LEFT to RIGHT:
TOTEME Monogram cotton pyjama shirt (NOT PICTURED: matching Toteme pyjama pants. Not just for sleeping!)
ALIGHEIRI gold link wanderlust necklace
TOTEME Black oversized draped cotton top (Phoebe vibes)
TOTEME suede tote bag (I’m lusting over this one so bad, big and roomy and suede feels so right now)
TOTEME monogram jacquard terrycloth towel (only the best for you!)
TOTEME layered jersey top (NOT PICTURED: or this ivory satin long-sleeve top, because we always need more Tops to go with all of our jeans!)
TOTEME white oversized cotton jersey tshirt (also available in Black. The epitome of ‘elevated basic’)
KHAITE white Marion wedge sandals (also offered in black and nude mesh which are great as well and you wouldn’t believe how comfy!)
TOTEME black fringed scarf (winter is coming)
PROENZA SCHOULER
She knows pretty much everyone and lives downtown, but with a slight uptown sensibility
FROM LEFT to RIGHT:
PROENZA Yves stripe fringed maxi dress (comes in the pale version as a top and skirt)
PROENZA thong feather embellished sandals (these are a dream and would instantly make a look . Also come in Black of course! but the yellow tho💛)
PROENZA Jackie Belted-Strap Front-Tie Jacquard Dress (same as the black leather one, but in the perfect shade of Yves Klein blue💙)
PROENZA Keny Wool Gabardine blazer (I’m always on the hunt for the perfect blazer and this one is a really great, love the modern buttonless styling, however if you prefer to make your buttons the focal point, this jacket is chic, obvi since it looks just like the one from Phoebe circa 2016 which I still own. In fact that whole show and those white buttons nearly bankrupted me then!)
PROENZA Days Smooth Leather Carryall Tote (Forever searching for the unicorn of a tote bag, for schlepping/work/airports/yoga etc, and this one seems pretty great if you can’t afford a Margaux) (NOT PICTURED: also great is this PS-1 canvas tote bag and this crossbody/shoulder bag which would make a great commuter bag!))
TEKLA organic towel (so obsessed with these towels and their whole brand actually!)
PROENZA Ondine printed silk midi dress (also comes as a top, this screen printing technique might be a mini trend this season, also spotted at Jason Wu above. Love it applied to their Ryman or Ellsworth jeans and maxi skirt too!)
PROENZA Track leather sneakers (NOT PICTURED: but have the same vibe, Nike Cortez sneakers Or the almost sold out version, the LD-1000)
. NOT PICTURED, but worth calling out:
Thought I’d also tag another great striped dress that must’ve been on the moodboard this season - #OLDCELINE striped shirtdress available at Vestiare
and this fore-mentioned #OLDCELINE caftan, one available at theRealReal
I’m also obsessed with this PROENZA maxi skirt which I recently shot and fell in love with, available now. So 90s
Just wanted to give a shoutout for these amazing over-the-knee scrunchy leather boots which I own and they’re still carrying now. They are just so cool and look great with a dress of any length. If they’re too much, also love these booties for Fall.
KHAITE
She’s a woman trying to have and do it all - a family, career, and a substack newsletter side hustle
FROM LEFT to RIGHT:
KHAITE Faris leather jacket. (NOT PICTURED: Also great is this cropped version, the Kember bomber jacket)
KHAITE x Oliver Peoples 1998C cat-eye sunglasses (these are so cool!)
KHAITE Augustina canvas tote bag the best crossbody shape for hands-free living (NOT PICTURED: also comes in black leather. Or if you prefer hauling your bag by the crook of your elbow, then this Lia Large leather tote bag would work. Seems like the biggest bag trend lately is very smart and practical looking tote and handbags that are great for work or otherwise busy ladies who need to carry around a thing or two, à la Birkin)
KHAITE Mathilde Knit Cotton-Blend Top and it’s fab matching skirt (I could even see this as a bridal look for a rehearsal dinner, or a super chic NewYear’s Eve)
KHAITE Zoe patchwork tote bag (a more cubist version here, or score the OG #oldceline here)
KHAITE white peep-toe leather pumps
KHAITE cropped crepe blazer (would look great with these bermuda shorts for immediate gratification, or these Caiton grain de poudre wide-leg Cargo pants , because yes, it’s still all about cargo pants)
KHAITE Paulson twill jacket with funnel neck (we’re all about keeping our necks and chins warm this FW)
KHAITE Ember silk gazar midi skirt. (personally i think Khaite’s past explorations with organza and gazar were better, like this paper bag waist skirt would be fantastic with a body con top)
THE ROW
She’s chic, effortless, and fabulous and too busy to try hard or care what you think
THE ROW will show their next collection in Paris in a few days, and I’m obviously so excited, I thought I’d throw this little edit together for you anyway since they technically presented their SS25 collection all the way back in June, and there are some v. good things.
FROM LEFT to RIGHT:
The ROW taupe Fleming Mac coat (NOT PICTURED: similar vibe in this Studio Nicholson coat or this one from Buck Mason which is water repellent)
PHOEBE PHILO Bombé oversize sunglasses (for the look but slightly less, these KHAITE 1969 oval-frame sunglasses would do)
The ROW Indra black oversized coat (or this one from great brand LOULOU STUDIO)
The ROW Hugo suede mules (in black. Of course the Birkenstock version here. I’m also lusting for these from Hermes, lucky size 9 over here, or these JW Anderson’s for a bit of pizazz)
The ROW Encore satin wide-leg pants (never met a pair of satin pants I didn’t love. Would make any shirt or sweater a little more special. And look how great with those Hugo mules!)
The ROW cream Owen sneakers, or in black (I’m a sucker for an elevated minimalist sneaker, or some Hoka’s, I work on my feet most of the time after all)
BOTTEGA VENETA this amazing olive trench coat has been sitting on theRealReal for a while, will someone please grab it? (NOT PICTURED: Living for this moody city grey trench as well)
The ROW Oregan raffia tote (it’s pretty much the perfect version of this basket bag and would last a lifetime and work for every occasion, from grocery shopping to the beach)
The ROW Corinna lamé pencil skirt (I’m so seduced by this skirt, very ‘Secretary’ but at night, in Paris…)
(NOT PICTURED: I'm obsessed with these two trenchcoats from THE ROW right now and literally can’t get them out of my head: The Denver and the Montrose. I’ll be coming back soon with more outerwear content but just needed to share…
I hope you found this NYFW recap and shopping inspo fun and useful. Let me know what you think and if you have any other thoughts for what you’d like to see as I’m working on Milan and Paris for you now. Fashion never sleeps, and apparently neither do I, working nonstop-athon, but that’s a discussion for another day...
After a crazy busy fashion week, I always treat myself to an extra special massage, and my girl Judy at RhemedybyRhed is like no other, no one else has ever made me shake off my worries in spasms like she does! They do everything there from lymphatic drainage, to cupping, to face and Buccal massage #IYKYK! Get one for yourself and let me know!
A little self-reflection is always a good thing. This podcast really gave me a new perspective on the power of Surrender - letting go, relinquishing control and accepting that some things are outside of my power. Recently, a situation with a delayed FedEx box containing a v.important dress for a v.important client vanished into the abyss which is ‘distribution center land’, and I nearly had a meltdown. All I could do from banging my head against a brick wall was to repeat the Serenity Prayer, which is useful for so many difficult situations, large and small.
“Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage to change the things I can, and the wisdom to know the difference.”
Hear me now: FedEx is a broken, unreliable Hot mess. Use it at your own peril!
phew, okay, now that I’ve gotten that off my chest, how about a song? something familiar and serene… link below
Love you and thanks for reading!! Natasha xx
“It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters.” Epictetus
Tahta Menezes * Rabih Abou-Khalil * Omar Faruk Tekbilek
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