Milan Fashion Week
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Photo: via @prada
Wow guys, the weather thankfully is still gorgeous in NYC, and that’s enough to lift one’s spirits! I love the fall so much and having a nice slow transition between the seasons is a blessing, especially for our bodies and nervous system, but also easier to switch between a summer and fall wardrobe - I’m loving a light jacket with a flip flop, or a pencil skirt and a sweater right now!
They've just wrapped it up in Paris as I write this, so I need a minute to compile something thoughtful and considered about that for you, so for this post lets focus on the shows in Milan. I like to do it this way because each city really has it’s own flavor. (And, if you missed my post about LondonFW, find it here, or NYFW.)
What's beginning to emerge for me, is this sense of either looking back, with twisted nostalgia (Bottega) or eccentric thriftiness (Prada), or seeing forward, with graphic silhouettes and new proportions (Bally). Is a look better because of subtraction or editing of elements? or is it made Extra with outsize details and mega styling? You can argue the case for both...
Predictably, things in Paris have proven to be much more experimental and boundary pushing...(recap to come). Meanwhile at the shows in Milan, it looked more about 'real dressing' and 'personal style'. For a while it seemed like the collections were just about conceptual ideas meant for the runway, and hoodies and logo merch were their real-life equivalents. No more! Now there's something for everyone - 80s mom inspo at BOTTEGA, quirky and thrifty at PRADA, graphic minimalism at BALLY/TOD'S/SPORTMAX, chic athleisure at FERRAGAMO, theatrics at MARNI, and nostalgic trips down memory lane with DOLCE and VERSACE.
While some have written that things looked 'derivative and unoriginal', I would argue that the best brands are still pushing the envelope in big ways, while smaller or emerging designers are taking cues from them, as they always have, just some are better than others at alchemizing ideas and making them their own. Personally I think this speaks to the commercial pressure to sell more than anything, and that's just the world we live in today, it's all about the bottom line ultimately in this sink or swim game of survival in the fashion industry.
Nevertheless, the impulse to create and evolve is our inherent human nature, so luckily there is a lot of new talent out there and thus new ideas to inspire - lets dive in. Apologies in advance for the length of this recap, I've never been one to do things halfway, so with that I give you my MilanFW recap for SS25! Thanks for being here, and let me know if you'd prefer fewer words! 🤗
BOTTEGA VENETA
Matthieu Blazy's BOTTEGA VENETA was lively and gorgeous! He mentioned the notion of 'playing dressup' and indeed there was a youthful excitement about. Beyond the set of Zanotta-designed leather bean bag chairs in cartoonish animal shapes, (on auction for about $10k a piece!!) there were quirky brooches and hardware, crochet flowers, 'shopping' and 'lunch' bags made of the most exquisite leather from this house of course, not to mention the spectacular leather raffia wigs and boas! So many extraordinary experiments for their talented artisans, wish I was there to go for the resee and appreciate them all in detail; next season...The beautiful color story is also worth noting, Blazy really has the most sophisticated sense of color, tone and combinations.
What really stood out for me though were the more practical and wearable suggestions in the suiting and strong tailoring with a modern take on 80s generous proportions. Who doesn't love a Working Girl reference? Also loved the full, tiered and ruffled skirts (skirts are back for spring!), all the great tops, (I always go to Bottega for great shirts and tops for work), and the stunning dresses and evening looks -that match embroidery 🔥!
The bags obviously were divine - lots of great day bags, loved the new Beak, and too many delightful, crafty iterations to list here, would be so fun for vacay. Check out the detail shots! The shoes were also amazing as always - sneakers, loafers, pumps, embellished sandals - so much variety! Interesting to see the explosive assortment of shoes this season in general, probably because footwear sells so much better than RTW.
Regardless, glad to see so many options and I'll be excited to see them all when they hit the stores. As a stylist, I know only too well how much a shoe can change a whole look! I often tell my personal clients, investing in new shoes is the quickest way to update anything in your closet.
PRADA
Speaking of shoes, how about this bonkers PRADA collection? Basically a different style pulled from their archives for every look! But the variety didn't stop there, it was all over the place, and not in a bad way - space-age, kinky, trompe l’oeil, bourgeois, nautical, punk... Only in the masterful hands of Miuccia and Raf, could this eccentric menagerie of ideas come together in such a captivating way. Perhaps this wild collection leaned more heavily into Raf's edgy techno universe, regardless I loved the mashup, and really appreciated the uninhibited freedom compared to the relatively studied restraint of seasons' past. They mentioned the 'digital saturation and overload' of our culture as an inspiration point for this show, and while I totally feel that, I hope this doesn't suggest to younger designers that it's ok to do away with a theme.
Highlights for me were the leather looks with round dangling hardware (oh my punk-loving roots) mixed with bougey tie-neck blouses. I also loved some of the nautical looks (another trend for ss25), the great outerwear and of course the variety of shoes. With all the trippy sunglasses and visors, this collection also provides a lot of material to build ideas around for editorial shoots to come!
BALLY / TOD’S
Simone Bellotti, the new designer at BALLY, has been quietly building something radically amazing for that brand! The couture-like shapes - a dropped shoulder here, an enveloping raised collar there - and considered proportions not only looked NEW (not an easy feat for a young designer), but also wearable. Shocker! It was giving me a bit of Antwerp Six, even though he's Swiss, with a new wave cool vibe to it that reeaaallly resonated. It will be fun to watch his evolution as a designer, and can't wait to see what gets produced for retail!
Meanwhile at TOD'S, Matteo Tamburini was also exploring a reductionist approach to day dressing, with great proportions in voluminous outerwear and jackets. There were a lot of great pieces inspired by #oldceline as well, if you can spot the references, that would still work today. Another one to watch...
jil sander
Lucie and Luke Meier's latest collection for JIL SANDER was a bit softer than usual, and better for it I thought. While I love this brand, it's interesting to me that I don't actually own anything from their iteration of Jil. This collection though offered some really desirable things like the pretty looks in satin (my favorite fabric), more 80s-proportions in jackets and tops, and exquisitely embroidered and embellished dresses. Some rumors about of the couples' departure, but for now, I'm still here for it.
ferragamo
Maximilian Davis had photographs of Rudolf Nureyev and Katharine Dunham, among other dance-inspired refs, on his moodboard for FERRAGAMO this season. I probably don't need to tell you that this particular 80s dancer-off-duty vibe is right up my alley, especially as those are some of the same starting points we have at LivetheProcess, the dance-inspired brand of yoga clothes I consult and style for. It might've been a bit on the nose with the shoes and everything, but still I really liked this - the soothing color palette, generous proportions, which we're seeing everywhere this season, and sumptuous fabrics made up for the lack of edge. The crinkled fabric effect we saw at Bottega, showed up here as well in a fabulous trench coat.
marni
Lest you think Milan was without fantasy, enter Francesco Risso, and his whimsical absurdist MARNI. A strong showing, with a somewhat post-war exuberance. I saw a lot of Galliano's Margiela in this collection, and I thought a bit lesser for it, especially considering so many of his ideas were fantastic like the mermaid shape dresses, some with rose prints (florals are going to be HUGE for ss25), scarf tie blouses and giant pannier skirts all made out of humble cotton. Risso is a true artist and it would be magical to get inside of his head and see all those references bouncing around. Great as it all is, I don't really want to buy anything from this brand like I did when he first came on the scene with that brilliant artful deconstruction.
dolce & gabbana / versace
How about DOLCE and VERSACE for nostalgia? They both revisited their past glory - Dolce with a Madonna/Gaultier 1991 revival, and Versace with a revamp of the iconic 1997 Versus collection with its thrift store color and print mashup. While surely nothing new to report, it was the execution and quality that made it remarkable. Dolce doing what they do best, and Donatella giving us a new/old idea to try again. I'm pretty convinced that there is a new and eager generation waiting to discover these style archetypes. Also, not gonna lie, it does make me want to look into the resale market for this stuff, or better yet go out thrifting again. Happy to report, I'm noticing a lot of vintage shops popping up in NYC again and that's definitely a good thing. Check out Desert Vintage, and the always satisfying, Amarcord.
gucci
Oh poor GUCCI, still flailing about, trying to figure out what it's trying to say. I'm feeling for Sabato De Sarno right about now, only his third outing for the house, and he's battling so much - poor financials, a revolving door of C-suite management, industry criticism - the pressure would be hell for anyone! I'll call out what I did like first seeing as I'm feeling empathetic: great mannish trousers, a v. cool trench and denim moment, highly convincing argument for a new shade of merlot, and some superb evening moments à la Jackie Kennedy. Despite those, the collection didn't move the needle much for Gucci, and sadly doesn't make me want to open my wallet either. Too bad.
fendi / max mara
Kim Jones might be on his way out at FENDI (rumor has it Pierpaolo might take over which would be a perfect, read obvious, fit), but for now at least there were some lovely things that might sit well with the general themes emerging for SS25, like vintage-inspired dressing with his beautifully embroidered flapper dresses and hot pants, the sheer trend and lots of soft brown about as well. (Brown is the new black?)
MAX MARA had some strong brown moments as well, with a really good show this season. Styled by Tonne Goodman, this was just perfectly elegant and classy. Trying not to use the phrase Quiet Luxury, but sorry, this pretty much nails it. Would love to get myself into one of their cashmere maxi coats any day!
sportmax
A quietly good show for me from Milan was SPORTMAX. Loved the uniformity, the elongated shapes and graphic lines. The denim on denim look was super cool - loving the super long skinny flare leg silhouette that's popping up here and there!
the attico / sunnei
Lastly a few words from the Milanese emerging designer front: Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio's THE ATTICO was a glamorously undone affair. Their particular amped-up version of party clothes with a roomy streetwear twist looked great, and will no doubt satisfy their jet-setting, yacht-loving, multilingual customer. Meanwhile SUNNEI was speaking to a very different demographic. The buyoantly fun and optimistic clothes looked ever more so modeled on an older generation. Love!
SHOPPING CORNER!!
Now for some retail therapy - my curated selection from the top brands, and the best pieces to invest in now! Happy browsing! 🤩
BOTTEGA VENETA
She travels a lot, has friends in all the major cities, and always stays at the same chic hotels where they know her by name…
FROM LEFT to RIGHT:
1. BOTTEGA VENETA Andiamo medium intrecciato suede tote (I also really like this one which would make a great everyday bag )
2. BOTTEGA VENETA black Draped virgin wool crêpe top
3. BOTTEGA VENETA Lewis leather pumps
4. BOTTEGA VENETA Striped cotton and linen-blend midi skirt (NOT PICTURED: also comes in this very practical khaki color) (FYi. it’s all about skirts again)
5. BOTTEGA VENETA Cha Cha leather mules (believe it or not these are actually really comfortable! coming from a yogi, you can trust me when it comes to back pain)
6. BOTTEGA VENETA checked cotton shirt (work to weekends)
7. BOTTEGA VENETA Intrecciato leather ankle boots (super luxe peeking out from wide leg jeans!👌🏻)
8. BOTTEGA VENETA gold plated earrings (just these give the right amount of zhuzh (sic?))
9. BOTTEGA VENETA Hop large leather bag
PRADA
She collects really good designer pieces, and wears them with her grandma’s heirloom jewelry which she never takes off…
FROM LEFT to RIGHT:
1. PRADA single-breasted suede jacket (So this 90s suede jacket vibe is one of the styles that’s all the rage right now. I looked high and low and have to report it’s tough finding an affordable dupe of this that isn’t sold out, but try these: Massimo Dutti, Staud)
2. PRADA round frame metal glasses (I wear glasses and these ones are taunting me right now, such a new and feminine look)
3. PRADA cotton-twill trenchcoat (NOT PICTURED: really good Mackintosh version here, a beautiful TOTEME, and a preloved BOTTEGA, because we all need a good trench)
4. PRADA jacquard high-low midi skirt (a great work skirt, but far from basic. Here’s another pre-loved version from Vestiare that’s on point for the new season!)
5. PRADA runway belt-detail tote bag (one of my favorite new bag shapes of late, practical and lady-like, and the only one that would want me to invest in a Prada bag)
6. PRADA Gerbera Print Poplin Button Down Blouse with Fringe Collar (now this is a very special shirt and we know that floral prints aren’t going anywhere, also just a really good top for the girl who loves jeans! Incidentally, here’s a really pretty 4-season floral skirt that would look great with a cashmere sweater and barn jacket, à la Miuccia)
7. PRADA red satin pumps (Trust me when I tell you, these are by far and away, the sexiest, most sculptural, gorgeous and comfortable pumps you will ever see. I got Pamela Anderson into a pair and she was obsessed! Here in black leather if the red is Troppo. A forever investment if you’re a pump-loving lady with an edge!)
8.PRADA Logo Propionate & Plastic Wrap Sunglasses (futuristic sunglasses were all over the Prada runway for SS25, get ahead of the trend now and give everything you wear a VIBE)
9. PRADA leather loafers (I don’t typically care for a logo, but these are good. If you’re a lucky size 38, score them from theRealReal here. Also saw these and loved!)
BALLY
She’s known for her effortless personal style, and makes even the most basic things look cool and chic…
FROM LEFT to RIGHT:
1. BALLY cargo pocket leather jacket (working on a separate post about leather jackets coming soon, but this one is really classic in a good way)
2. BALLY Belle large leather tote (chic weekender or travel bag! NOT PICTURED: but also great is this tote bag.)
3. BALLY olive green fitted waist wool coat
4. BALLY Embroidered organic cotton-blend piqué polo shirt (NOT PICTURED: Also great is this perfect little compact cashmere polo sweater)
5. BALLY High-rise flared jeans (super chic kick flare shape. with matching jean jacket, NOT PICTURED)
6. BALLY Embroidered cotton-poplin shirt
7. BALLY leather loafers (more sizes available here)
8. BALLY Wool-blend twill midi skirt. (has an inverted V shape waistline, v.flattering)
9. BALLY boat loafer vibes, but as a bootie
FERRAGAMO
She's intellectual and sophisticated and prefers the ballet or a gallery opening to a fashion show any day
FROM LEFT to RIGHT:
1. FERRAGAMO Embroidered Sheer Midi Dress (super sexy and Alaia-ish like this from theRealReal. NOT PICTURED: Or a great pre-loved Jil embroidered dress also on the RealReal, size XS)
2. FERRAGAMO Sequined Midi Dress (new season already available for pre-order at MODA! Or a pretty similar dupe I keep banging on about from Bottega, preloved from Vestiaire here)
3. FERRAGAMO black Sleeveless Cotton Top (prettiest neckline on a simple top you could wear literally anywhere)
4. FERRAGAMO white belted jumpsuit (this is a wow thing for lovers of the one-and-done jumpsuit, and it’s going to be all about white again next SS!)
5. FERRAGAMO red Tulip Hem Jersey Mock Neck Midi Dress (I’m obsessed with this dress - talk about standing out in a room!)
6. FERRAGAMO burgandy Textured Cotton-Blend Safari Jacket and pants (this wrinkled texture is a micro-trend, see Bottega, and would make for the perfect suit for travelling, no steaming required! Also burgundy was all over the runways and will be a huge color trend!)
7. FERRAGAMO ballet wrap top (dance-inspired is my thing, so I’m sold! You could score something similar at my fave LivetheProcess, or this one from theRealReal, and also, this gently-used Alaia wrap top is super cute)
8. FERRAGAMO Raw-Hem Wrap Cotton Midi Skirt (it’s all about skirts again, and this one is really cool and would work day-to-night)
9. FERRAGAMO white barrel leg jeans (these are a great fit and shape and perfect for a winter whites moment)
Phew guys! We made it to the end! If you're still reading this, thank you for sticking with me. I hope you found it useful, inspiring and fun! Next we'll be turning our attention to the heavy hitters in Paris, so be sure to check back. I'll save more shopping tips for next time as I've got some other pressing things to work on, but don't worry, I'm cooking up some new boards to share, especially around transitional shoes and jackets as we're officially in fall now.
Incidentally, there are some MAJOR shifts happening astrologically with eclipses and Pluto whiplashing between Capricorn and Aquarius, so if you're feeling a bit wonky, there are some heavenly reasons for it. If you're not already familiar with it, The Pattern is a really great place to start learning about your astrology and how it impacts your life and relationships. They've recently had a major update on their app with lots of new content and audios for the paid version, and it's been pretty much blowing my mind - so spot on!
Speaking of new days coming, check out this track below!
So grateful for you, thanks for being here!! Feel free to reach out to me with any thoughts, questions, or concerns! Natasha xx
There’s a new day coming
* Manhattan Street Band/Saundra Williams *
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